Series: basics of training on the Hangboard: part 1-Active hang

Overcoming difficult climbing routes requires more than just grip strength. Precise footwork, understanding and utilizing the forces at play during climbing, as well as advanced body and mind work are crucial. However, at a certain level, even the best skills may prove insufficient when encountering a route with overly demanding holds. In such moments, finger strength training becomes essential. An excellent tool for such specific training is the hangboard.

In the following posts, we will introduce you to the key elements of hangboard training to ensure it is both safe and effective.

One of the most important basics is the use of the so-called Active Hang:

Do not let your body hang on fully extended arms, relying only on the skeletal structure. During the hang, be sure to engage your arm and shoulder muscles, keeping your elbows slightly bent and stabilizing yourself with your abdominal muscles. Avoid rotating your shoulders inward. Additionally, ensure even alignment and stabilization of the shoulders to avoid overloading one side of the body.

Hanging without proper tension causes excessive load, wear, and damage to the soft tissues that connect the bones in our shoulders. If we try to hang, relying on our skeleton instead of engaging the shoulder girdle muscles, we degrade the tissues that support our skeleton. Additionally, not engaging the shoulders and hanging with the arms slightly rotated inward can lead to impingement in the joint space and irritation of the biceps tendon and other shoulder structures.